Do You Need a Face Toner?

TV shows and movies tend to get the reboot treatment — new and improved characters, plotlines and backstories.

When it comes to skin care, toner is back in the starring role thanks to its evolution from an alcohol-based solution to one that has skin-loving ingredients to target different skin types and concerns.

So, what does toner do for your face? This new class of toners is water-based, soothing and, in some cases, can brighten skin and fight aging, leaving your skin feeling clean and hydrated.

What is a facial toner?

A toner is typically a water-based lotion or tonic that you use after cleansing and before moisturizing, says dermatology resident Angela Wei, MD. While it may look and feel like water, it does a lot more — think of it as a primer for the rest of your skin care routine. A toner may also be called a tonic, exfoliating acid or an essence.

“Unlike old-school toners that had high alcohol content designed to remove oil on the skin and were often drying and irritating, modern-day toners are much more moisturizing and soothing,” explains Dr. Wei. “They can help prep your skin for additional cosmetics and products that come afterward rather than just stripping away oil and grime.”

You can find a variety of toners at stores and online. Some are infused with peppermint, aloe or eucalyptus to help soothe skin.

And don’t mistake a toner for an astringent. Astringents are usually alcohol-based and used to control oil — but they can be harsh and dry out your skin. A toner gently refreshes your skin without stripping it of moisture.

What does a facial toner do?

Face toner benefits include:

• Removing dirt and grime: Toners remove any dirt or grime or leftover makeup that remains after cleansing. But, unlike astringents, they do so gently.
• Hydrating your skin: The outer layer of your skin is a mixture of oils and proteins. When you wash your face, you’re removing any dirt and dead skin, which can cause the outer layer of your skin to feel dry. Thanks to its high-water content, toners can help hydrate your skin. Many toners contain additional ingredients like hyaluronic acid or glycerin that also increase your skin’s hydration.
• Improving absorption of other skin care products: “When you apply a toner immediately after cleansing, you’re increasing the water content of that outer layer of skin, which improves product absorption,” explains Dr. Wei. “It kind of acts like a sponge by helping those other skin care ingredients sink in.”
• Making pores look smaller: “Using a toner with alpha-hydroxy acids (like glycolic or lactic) or beta-hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid) can help unclog pores and smooth skin texture, making your pores look a little bit smaller,” says Dr. Wei. “But since pore size is largely genetic, it’s pretty difficult to actually reduce the size of pores.”
• Restoring skin’s pH balance: “Toners with mild acids like glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid can help quickly restore the natural acidity of your skin after cleansing,” Dr. Wei adds.

When will you see changes from using a toner?

“It usually takes between six weeks and three months to see any effect from using a toner,” reports Dr. Wei. “The improvement may be subtle, but toners really make everything else work better.”

If your toner is designed to help prevent acne or reduce hyperpigmentation, then you may see results in about two to three months. And Dr. Wei says that you may see more of a payoff over time from using a toner, especially if it has anti-aging ingredients.

“You may not see an immediate difference. But over the course of a few years, you may notice your skin aging more slowly,” Dr. Wei notes.

Choosing the right toner for you

As with many skin care options, there isn’t a one-size-fits-all toner out there. They come in a variety of formulas that cater to your skin tone, type and concerns.

“It’s important to look at the ingredient list. First, look to see if there’s any alcohol used and if so, how much,” Dr. Wei advises. “A small amount of alcohol can be good for people with oily skin or who have acne.”

Here’s what to look for (or avoid) based on your skin needs:

• Acne-prone skin: Try a toner that has alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs). “Some toners contain salicylic acid, which can be really good for hyperpigmentation and oil control,” notes Dr. Wei.
• Dull skin: Look for formulas that contain AHAs/BHAs, niacinamide or licorice root or papaya extracts, which act as natural exfoliants.
• Sensitive skin: Dr. Wei suggests avoiding toners that are heavily fragranced, use a lot of dyes and preservatives, as that can irritate your skin. “Additionally, if you have rosacea and are on prescription products, it’s always good to be mindful about how you’re adding products to your skin care routine. You just want to make sure that your skin is going to tolerate it.”
• Mature skin: Opt for a toner that boasts antioxidants like vitamin C and ferulic acid and hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

How to use a face toner

When you think about applying your skin care products, Dr. Wei recommends starting with the lightest texture or thinnest consistency, then working your way up to products that have the thickest consistency.

“Toners should be used after cleansers because they’re water-based,” Dr. Wei instructs. “Sometimes, toners come in a spray form, so you can mist it onto your face directly. Sometimes, they’re applied with a cotton ball, swab or round.”

When it comes to how to apply toner, it couldn’t be easier. All you need to do is gently swipe (or spray) the toner over your face after cleansing. No need to wash off.

And how often you use a toner is up to you — you can use it once or twice a day. If your toner has strong acids or other active ingredients that may be irritating, you can start with every other day and work your way up.

“You can fit it into your routine based on how your skin is tolerating the product and what other products or moisturizers you use,” Dr. Wei suggests. “Some people only do their skin care routine once a day and don’t need to necessarily add a second step or a second component of their routine.”

Bottom line?

If you’re looking to up your skin care game, adding a toner can be beneficial.

“There are so many toners out there on the market. And many can help with any skin problem that you may have, from acne-prone skin and rosacea-prone skin to dry or oily skin,” says Dr. Wei. “There’s a toner for almost everybody.”