What Is Allantoin? And What Does It Do for Your Skin (and More)?

When you look at your options for night creams, facial serums, healing ointments and more, some ingredients are likely announced in big letters right on the front of the package.

Ceramides! Peptides! Glycogen! Niacinamide!

And while some vitamins and nutrients may get all the glory, there are other ingredients doing important work behind the scenes.

Allantoin is one of those quiet powerhouses. The one you’ll probably notice only if you really dig into the ingredients list. But it deserves some credit. Because it can make a big difference in how your skin looks and feels.

We talked with dermatologist Wilma Bergfeld, MD, about allantoin. What is it? And why does it matter?

What is allantoin?

Allantoin is a naturally occurring chemical compound. Your own body makes allantoin. It’s also derived from plants like comfrey.

“Our bodies make allantoin, especially during exercise. And it’s found in some plants, too. But the allantoin you’ll find as an ingredient in your lotions, lipsticks and other products is more likely to have been synthetically produced,” Dr. Bergfeld explains.

And unlike some other ingredients that you need to seek out, allantoin is already built-in to a long list of skin care and beauty products. That includes things like:

• Moisturizers for your face, hands and body
• Facial cleansers
• Acne care products
• Serums
• Eye cream and eye masks
• Face masks
• Toners
• Lipstick
• Lip balm and chapstick
• Mascara
• Shampoo, conditioner and hairspray
• Body wash
• Oral care products, like toothpaste and mouthwash
• Ointments for cuts, burns and wounds
• Diaper cream
• Shaving cream and aftershave

Benefits of allantoin

Allantoin is popular for a lot of reasons. And much of it comes down to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizing properties.

“Allantoin can tone down the dryness of the individual cells,” Dr. Bergfeld shares. “It increases the water content of the skin, which means it helps to hydrate and moisturize.”

Let’s break down the ways that allantoin benefits your skin and more.

Moisturizing

Allantoin is a humectant. That means it helps to bring water from the lower levels of your skin to the top.

It’s also hygroscopic, which means it helps to absorb water from the air around you (humidity).

That adds up to a powerful moisturizer that helps keep your skin hydrated. Which explains its use in items like creams, lotions, conditioners and lip products. And it can also help keep away flakiness, soothe dry patches and repair cracks in your skin.

In your hair products, allantoin can work to help keep your scalp from becoming flaky or irritated. And it can help keep your hair hydrated and lessen frizz.

But, wait, there’s more!

“The moisturizing properties of allantoin may also help to counteract the drying action of other active ingredients in products,” Dr. Bergfeld adds.

Some ingredients in beauty and skin care products, like alcohols, sulfates and fragrances, can cause dryness. By adding allantoin to those products, manufacturers can get the benefits of those ingredients in their products and counteract the unwanted dryness effects.

Anti-aging

You’ll see allantoin in a lot of anti-aging skin care products. That’s because moisturized skin is younger-looking skin.

“When your skin is well-moisturized, it has more flexibility, so it moves well and springs back better,” Dr. Bergfeld says.

As we age, our skin naturally becomes thinner and looser. But keeping your skin hydrated with a boost from moisturizing ingredients like allantoin can help it stay plump and firm. That can help lessen the effects of aging skin like:

• Wrinkles
• Fine lines
• Laugh lines
• Crow’s feet
• Crepiness
• Dullness

Exfoliating

In some ways, caring for your skin is like waiting tables at a restaurant — it’s all about the turnover.

That’s to say, you don’t want dead skin cells hanging around after they’ve done their duty. You want to clear them away and make room for healthy, shiny cells that keep your skin looking young and fresh.

And allantoin can help with that.

“Allantoin has a keratolytic effect, which means it can help soften the proteins in your skin and hair,” Dr. Bergfeld explains.

That means that allantoin works to help rid your skin and hair of dead cells and lead to smoother skin. It may also be effective in clearing up scaly skin that’s common with conditions like dandruff, eczema or psoriasis.

Bacteria killing

Allantoin, like many moisturizing ingredients, can help to kill bacteria. And while you may not like to think about it, your skin is a hotbed of bacteria.

When you have a crack, cut or sore, those bacteria can enter your body. And bacteria from the environment can wiggle their way in, too.

Ingredients like allantoin and other antimicrobials can create a barrier that keeps the bad agents out, allowing your skin to heal.

That’s what makes allantoin a useful ingredient in your oral care products, as well as healing balms and ointments.

Mild and safe

Allantoin is a ubiquitous additive for a reason. It’s effective and isn’t known to be irritating for people.

“Allantoin is slowly absorbed and has a short half-life. It’s metabolized quickly and isn’t likely to cause any risks or side effects,” Dr. Bergfeld notes.

That’s why allantoin is even found in a lot of products intended for sensitive skin and sensitive teeth. And it’s commonly used in products for babies and kids, like tear-free shampoos, lotions and bubble baths.

That said, when allantoin is used in combination with other exfoliating ingredients, it could cause irritation or redness. Not because of the allantoin itself, but because the cumulative effect of multiple ingredients could be too intense for your skin.

When trying new skin care products, take it slowly. Add one new product at a time and give it a few weeks to see how your skin is reacting. Most products take some time to build up and create visible results. So, be patient and keep your routine simple.