How To Order Your Skin Care Routine

Got a bevy of skin care products, but not sure which order to put them on? You’ve come to the right place! Dermatologist Sean McGregor, DO, explains why your skin care routine order matters and which products are optional.

Why skin care product order matters

Morning or night, how you layer your skin care products affects which ingredients get absorbed by your skin. Apply them out of order, mix the wrong products or use too many, and your skin will feel the consequences.

“Certain toners, serums and other products cause dryness, and it’s easy to overdo it if you’re using too many products,” says Dr. McGregor. “The more products you use, the better the chances you’re going to have side effects from them.”

Whatever you use, the general rule is to keep your routine simple. Stick to gentle products with fewer ingredients. And test them first to make sure they don’t cause an allergic reaction.

“Try to minimize the number of new products you introduce into your skin care routine, and avoid heavily fragranced products,” he advises. “If you start to show signs of contact dermatitis or skin irritation, stop using the product and make an appointment with a dermatologist.”

The correct order for skin care products

Your skin care routine should be ordered from lightest to heaviest (or thinnest to thickest). You wouldn’t, for example, put on a thick moisturizing cream before putting on a thin vitamin D serum because the serum wouldn’t penetrate your skin as well.

At its simplest, Dr. McGregor suggests following this skin care routine order.

a.m. and p.m. Step 1: Cleansers

Cleansers should be the first thing you do, both in the morning and at night. Why? Because they remove all the dirt, dead skin and grime — paving the way for any other products you use.

Remember: You only have to do this once each time. Double cleansing causes more harm than good.

“A little cleanser goes a long way,” says Dr. McGregor. “Mix a nickel-sized amount of cleanser with water and gently wash your face with your hands. Your hands are going to be less abrasive than a washcloth.”

When to use an exfoliant

Exfoliants do the same thing as cleansers, except they’re able to provide a deep clean for your pores. So, Dr. McGregor suggests using a cleanser or an exfoliant (or an exfoliating cleanser) as your first step — not both.

When choosing an exfoliant, stay away from:

• Specialized brushes or tools
• Salt scrubs
• Sugar scrubs
• Charcoal-based products

These can actually irritate your skin. Use a chemical exfoliant that contains glycolic acid a couple times a week instead. It will help remove dead skin and even out your skin tone.

a.m. Step 2: Serums

Serums should be used in the morning and applied after your cleanser as the second step in your routine. There are all sorts of serums on the market that claim to have many benefits, but Dr. McGregor recommends only using one serum at a time. Some, like vitamin C serums, offer a great starting point — but they can also throw off the pH balance of your skin if they’re mixed with other chemical exfoliants like alpha-hydroxy acids.

“Vitamin C serum reinforces your sunscreen — it does not replace it,” clarifies Dr. McGregor. “It helps prevent damage caused by the sun and helps reduce hyperpigmentation (dark spots).”

p.m. Step 2: Retinols and retinoids

At night, use retinols and retinoids instead of a serum. These vitamin A derivatives can become deactivated and cause irritation when exposed to sunlight. But when used at night, they can help:

• Remove dead skin cells
• Reduce oil gland production (for folks with oily skin)
• Smooth fine lines and wrinkles
• Improve acne
• Improve dark spots

“Your retinol products are like a workhorse or catch-all for skin care,” says Dr. McGregor. “You don’t need a lot of them to experience their benefits; you just need a pea-sized amount.”

a.m. and p.m. Step 3: Moisturizers

A lot of skin care products — including retinol — can dry out your skin. So, it’s super important that you use a moisturizer as the third step in your skin care routine, twice a day: once in the morning and once in the evening.

“Moisturizers lock in moisture and help prevent transepidermal water loss, or water evaporating from your skin,” explains Dr. McGregor. “Moisturizers help prevent eczema, contact dermatitis and other kinds of skin irritation.”

a.m. Step 4: Sunscreen

Dermatologists everywhere recommend sunscreen every day — and that’s why it’s the final step of your skin care routine. You don’t have to wear sunscreen at night for obvious reasons, but putting it on as the final step each morning is key to keeping your skin healthy and cancer-free.

There are some moisturizers and makeup that have sunscreen in them, too, but they’re usually not enough to completely protect you from sun damage. So, make sure you’re also using broad-spectrum sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher.

Optional skin care products

Even if you’re attempting to use fewer skin care products, there’s a chance you’ve still got others lying around that aren’t listed in our skin care routine order. Here’s what to do (or avoid doing) with anything else that didn’t make Dr. McGregor’s cut:

• Toners: Toners are thought to shrink pores, but retinols are much more effective, says Dr. McGregor. Plus, toners can cause irritation and dry skin if you’re sensitive to them. If you choose to use one anyway, use it in the a.m. as the second step after cleansing.
• Spot treatments: If you’re using salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide as an at-home treatment for acne or pimples, you’ll want to apply it as needed for the second step of your skin care routine order. And definitely wear sunscreen, as spot treatments can sometimes increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.
• Eye creams: The skin around your eyes can be sensitive, so Dr. McGregor usually recommends moisturizers over eye creams to avoid further irritation. But if you choose to use an eye cream, do it between step three and four — after using a serum and before using a moisturizer.
• Face oils: “Face oils tend to be too occlusive and that can lead to more acne,” notes Dr. McGregor. “I don’t recommend using face oils unless you have dry skin.” If you try a face oil, apply it right before putting on a moisturizer.

“There are a lot of skin care products on the market, but you want to try and minimize the amount of products you’re putting on your skin and make your skin care routine as efficient as possible,” advises Dr. McGregor.

“At a minimum, you want to apply a cleanser followed by a moisturizer and sunscreen in that order.”